On that note, wear a mask or work outdoors. That in turn makes a difference in the appearance and durability of the coating. Basically it forces the glue to cure before the material can saturate. It will certainly cure the epoxy more quickly, but it won't allow all the moly that it can to be absorbed into the epoxy. Its residual moly, so don't lick it unless you're trying to keep your poop smooth. Once overnighted in a 70+ degrees F not super humid environment they look, feel and act just like a NIB mag, including the little bit of gray stuff you get on your fingers when handling a new mag right out of the bag or box. Great for metal followers, not so great for outer body. If you touch it early with any sort of rubbing/polishing, like 15 minutes to 3 or so hours, the stuff will take on a sheen/shine. (unless you're anal about the indicator color of whatever Magpul anti-tilt generation X follower anyway, in which case, remove them entirely)ĭo not buff, rub, polish or put cloth against the bodies until the stuff has cured overnight. Plastic followers don't really need it though you can if you wish, but a little overspray while doing the springs is usually enough for the purpose. Hit the followers on 20rd mags with metal followers. If its the lubricity you're after internally, spray the spring. Bottle brush with soapy water to clean out powder fouling is all the body would require generally. No need to shoot the inside of the mags, as if they are rotten, no amount of coating is going to fix them and generally only wear mechanically where the spring rides unless the follower is really dicked up and dragging the sides. If you're getting a single can off a truck out front of your house, or even a pallets worth off the loading dock of a shipping company, no hazmat fee. Hazardous charges will be automatically applied to the shipping charges. *Notice* This product is considered a hazardous material when shipping via air. It even says as much at the bottom of the linked page (my italics, thier color) Ie, no overnight or express that would require an airplane ride.įor reference, I got 2 cans for under $50 from there to way upstate NY. 800 number right at the top of the page.Ĭost will be however much it is to move a 1.1# item via ground route in a small box through FedEx. You're not going to get hit with the hazmat fees unless you do air shipment.Ĭall and ask them, I'm not BS'ing. If you think I should save my money and get them parkarized I'm willing to hear why. The low curing temperature prevents possible heat damage to parts during the blah blah blah.Īny input is appreciated. Our additives create a phenolic coating that is hard,durable, and extremely chemical and heat resistant.Our special low temperature catalyst will cause the Resin to harden and bond to the surface to form a barrier to acids, oils, paint removers, powder solvents, bore cleaners and other strong industrial solvents. These finishes are specifically formulated from a phenolic resin base and molybdenum disulfide (a superior lubricant) with an exclusive blend of additives only available through Norrell Manufacturing. Moly Resin™ is a product trademark of John Norrell Inc. Any experts out there? Here is the info on the moly resin: Wondering which will do better on the magazines in terms of lasting with use? I think the nickle, but if it's electoless, I'm not sure how it's bonded to the metal. I don't want to spend much, just can't afford it right now, so the cheapest options I have found (besides parkarizing) are Moly Resin (see below) or Electroless Nickel. Need to re-finish some Sig 226 and 225 mags and a few Colt (and a few non-colt) 20 round M-16 mags from my Army days.
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